Jakobsweg CAMINO 2008,
17. Juli 2008 bis 31. Juli 2008
For higher resolution click on the pictures and download with right click of your mouse
I choose to walk the Camino Arragones (via the Col de Somport)
there are fewer pilgrims and the walking is more difficult than the "normal" Camino which starts at Saint Pied de Port (via Roncesvalles and Pamplona).
Access: By plane (Ryan Air) from Frankfurt Hahn to Biarritz/Bayonne
NEW updated Sep. 7th 2008 (at the end you see what happened to the jamon iberico)
just added four short videos from my mobile phone converted to AVI Files - links are below the photos also:
around picture 233 - bull festival - dancing in the streets
around picture 321 - Festival of Senor Santiago on July 25th
- another video of this festival later at night
around picture 3072 (Anatevka)- in the streets of burgos
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Bayonne
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Bayonne - on parle Francais ici
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Bayonne
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From Bayonne by train via Pau to Oloron, then by bus
(this picture is taken from the bus window)
You feel the mountains approaching - you know that you have to walk up there now . . .
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Bus approaching the mountains
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driving nearer the mountains
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And then - the bus stopped in the middle of nowhere.
The last bus did not go all the way to the col the somport - just to some village called Urdos.
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So what shall we do with the evening . . .
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Fog and Mist on the Mountain tops . . . we are supposed to go there
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In the bus was another German - Yennik from Hamburg - and we decided to walk up to the mountain at night.
Well - in Japan you climb Mount Fuji at night - so why not try this little "Col the Somport" and arrive up there after Midnight
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They take you up where you belong . . .
Higher and higher - then the lights went out and we went out of water till we found a mountain spring . . .
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We slept outside on the col the somport near a house where nobody lived - the house protected us from the wind but it was still awully cold up there and on the hills nearby you could see the snow. Of course after midnight you are too lazy to put up a tent . . . just wrap yourself in the tent cloth and sleep and the wonder why it is so cold up there . . .
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Early morning on the mountain
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Fog going down - so we hope for a sunny day
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The border between France and Spain on the Col the Somport - nobody there any more these days
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Climbing down from Col the Somport (Somport Pass) to Canfranc. This is a tough mountain path and too dangerous to do it at night with only one torch. So thats why we decided to sleep up on the pass.
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climbing down
to say it with Joe Cocker & Jennifer Warnes
The road is long
There are mountains in our way
But we climb steps every day
Love lift us up where we belong
Where the eagles cry, on a mountain high
Love lift us up where we belong
Far from the world we know
Up where the clear winds blow
.... next time remember this in a Tokyo karaoke . . .
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wow - we see the first Pelegrinos. Spanish persons. But they have much difficulty with the slippery path and some of them fell down several times.
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Yennik from Hamburg went down with me to Canfranc
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The way down is really beautiful
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We enjoyed climbing the mountains very much - great landscape in the early morning
Its a bit like in Scotland - and there are sheep too
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Yennik - he wants to go all the way to Santiago with almost no weight in his backpack
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He will only go to Burgos with a tent and lots of comfortable things in his backpack . . .
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Blocking the camino - who is stronger?
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Now I know what "natsukashii" means.
A german guy who likes Japan being in Spain watching my daugthers favourite programm "Heidi" with the title song in Japanese.
So listening to "Japanese" in far away spain was "natsukashii" to me.
(natsukashii means something like feeling at home, remembering good old times)
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An old Tower on the way near Canfranc-Estation
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Good place to take a bath or a morning shower
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Javier from Sevill
a (Spain) - he accompanied me for a while. He is a Medicine Student in his last year and plans to visit me in Japan in the near future. Javier has studied in Marburg for 1 year and his English is perfect. He taught me some Spanish on the way and lots about Spanish culture and food, especially on the different types of ham (chamon iberico etc).
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nice walks between the mountains
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A truck transporting sheep an pigs
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little serpent enjoying the sun
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Decided not to stay in Jaca (as some of the others) but to continue walking to Santa Cilia
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Santa Cilia
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The Alberge ist always open (just need to press the door handle really really hard)
We were just 4 staying there
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International dinner, Angel from France, Javier from Spain, a girl fom Belgium and me. In the background a lady from the village came to check out if someone was staying in the place.
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For the Pyrenees Mountains I had cut a good walking stick - but I forgot it in a restaurant after some beers....
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The way from Santa Cilia via Puenta la Reina de Jaca to Artieda
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Between Arres an Artieda make sure to fill up your water bottle - it's 19 km walking in the sunshine and no village
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up and down and up an down and no shadow . . .
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crossing 2 rivers on the way - sometimes it is useful to have a walking stick. Like on these slippery stones.
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You can see Artieda in the distance. Tough walk today - many km without water and shade.
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Up on the hill in Artieda I finally met other people again. From Britain and Luxemburg and many from Spain - almost nobody from Germany seems to take this Camino Arragones Route
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In the alberge you just sit all together on one big table and we shared the food which the cook made
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and really lots of lots of vino tinto - you get thirsty while walking
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climbing down from Artieda
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here I got lost (thinking too much and not looking after the way to go)
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finally found back to the camino after asking someone directions
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Artieda seen from behind
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Morning near Artieda - looking back to the Pirinees
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Passing the almost abandoned village Ruesta. I loved this place.
If you love haunted mansions and ghosts - thats where you should go at night . . .
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Like "the city of the dead" or something thrilling like that
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who might have lived in these houses a long time ago . . .
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I love placed like that - ruined houses where you can play around and explore the area.
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With a great view on these abandoned houses was one bar still "alive" - and they had cold beer and Boccadillos.
So my brunch was safe.
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View on the abandoned village Ruesta while climbing down
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an old fountain
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View on Lake Yesa
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Walking from Ruesta to Undues de Lerda - quite lonely hiking through nice landscape
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You see Undues de Lerda already but its still a tough climbing donw and up ahead in the afternoon sun . . .
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Roman street
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climbing down the street from roman times
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The alberge of Undues de Lerda
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You can sleep under the roof in an old old house - very interesting atmosphere
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I met a couple from France in Undues de Lerda and agein on the way the next morning
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Climbing down together from Undues de Lerda - we went to the Xavier Castle together
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Like the couple from France I had decided not to follow the normal camino but take one day deviation to
Javier (Xavier) Castle which lies nearby.
In Javier Castle Francisco de Xavier (Javier) was born in 1506. On his 3rd Journey he had visited Japan.
So as I had come all the way from Japan I HAD TO visit this historically place.
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Javier is one center of the Jesuits
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Javier Castle - he and Ignatio de Loyola were the founders of the Jesuits.
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Frech breakfast ist cafe au lait and german breakfast is beer and ham-sandwich.
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Before the breakfast we had cut open blisters on her feet and after the successful operation
they invited me for breakfast.
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Exhibitions inside Xavier Castle
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Xavier visiting Japan (Kakemon) - all exhibitions in Javier castle
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View from the tower
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torture room of Xavier castle
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After the french couple was gone I had my second german breakfast, this time 2 beers and 2 sandwiches with really delicous ham.
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This night I spent on a Camping Place in Sanguesa. They had a swimming pool next door - you'll love it after walking for a day.
The alberge was full anyway as I heard from other Pelegrinos who were sent to the camping place to stay there.
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Go for a swim in Sanguesa - before it gets crowded in the evening
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A pelegrino friend, Angel from Paris - we had met in Santa Cilia.
On the camino you feel like good old friends when seeing each other again somewhere on the way.
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my tent - really good stuff from our customer "Snow Peak" in Japan.
Its almost 2.5 kg more to carry every day, but thats the price of freedom - which ist priceless ! ! !
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Pasta in Spain are not perfect seen from the French and German perspective . . .
but after a few beers - who cares . . .
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The meat was OK though, even from the German point of view
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evening in Sanguesa
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shaving on the camping place
the fotos you are watching were taken with this japanese mobile phone.
Click on the photos to get higher resolution and download with right click/save picture.
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a torres (tower) in Ruesta with many birds in the early morning
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thats a real majestic "torres" (torres describes it better than just "tower")
for those kids who are in my chess class - thats what your powerful
rook looks like when it gets to the seventh row in front of your opponent
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Leaving Sanguesa
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After Sanguesa you have a tough tough walk to go. 19 km without village and water to Izco and then via Abinzano
and Salinas de Ibargoito to Monreal where I stayed.
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Here you MUST fill up your water - from now it's tough 19 km up and down hiking without any village or water
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looking down in a beautiful valley - and walking down again - feeling like on a roller-coaster . . .
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on the way you meet "good old friends"
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tough walk on a hot day - and then we meet another "good old friend"
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finally after 19 km in the middle of nowhere you come to the village Izco. I still walked on to Monreal.
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Another 10 km from Izco to Monreal
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finally cooling down in Monreal
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Tortilla with olives and hot pepper
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and one(?) little beer
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early morning in the Alberge of Monreal - the Belgium girl was there and we also met Xavier from Sevilla again
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Javier gave me good advice on which ham (jamon) to buy.
I will buy one in Burgos and try to get it throug Japanese customs . . .
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Village of Yarnoz
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... I'd love to eat one of those barbecued . . .
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If you arrive late in an Alberge you have not enough time to dry your clothes.
So you attach it to your backpack. But be sure to attach it properly.
The whole camino is paved with socks and towels and other clothes.
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Tiebas
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In the far distance you can see Pamplona
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Pamplona from a distance
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... wow, wineyards. Where there are wineyards there should be delicious wine from now . . .
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Church of Eunate. Here the two Caminos meet
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At Eunate I met two ladies from Germany, Ursula and Christa. Ursula had fallen down and hurt her arm the day before.
But they were both happily walking along.
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First my "normal" lunch - beer and Sandwich with delicious ham
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Christa and Ursula from Germany. After 2 beers we switched to Sangria
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Ursulas arm in gipsum.
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Ursula Reichert from Germany mailed me this foto from Christa and me in Obanos.
They had a "real" camera with them. My photos were taken with the mobile phone.
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They stayed in Obanos - I kept on walking to Puente la Reina (where the alberges were full) and on to
Maneru and Chirauqui (near Lorca) where I stayed.
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Festival in Puente la reina - be sure to watch out. Somtimes there is a bull running around the village like in Pamplona.
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Traditional colours red / white - bull fighting atmosphere
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See an AVI-Video of this - bull festival - dancing in the streets
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I watched their festival. Lots of Alcohol and spashing water around and singing...
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The bridge of "puente" la reina
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and on and on we go . . . in the afternoon
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nice view on the next village Maneru
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staying at the Cirauqui alberge - arriving in the late afternoon after a really good hike all day long.
I showed my stampbook to the lady when checking in and looking at my stamps she exclamated:
"You come today 45 km from Monreal??? Thats a bit too much ! ! !"
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next morning - breakfast in the next village - Lorca
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girl from australia
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Laura from Paris - she gave good advice where to stay in Paris. Thank you Laura.
My friend Keiko will stay there.
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Veronika from Poland (living in Mannheim speking German fluently)
She is one of the few pelegrinos walking in the afternoon too. Most others stop walking in the afternoon.
If you walk slowly and steadily in the morning and afternoon (like Veronika, Hugo or me) you do much
more kilometers (about 40km) every day and don't feel tired. Wonder why so many peoplo don't do this.
The "normal pelegrino" gets up very early in the morning (we don't) and walks from 6 till noon.
Fast, but not very far every day. They don't know about walking in the beautiful afternoon/evening
sunset atmosphere.
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the sportsmans way of drinking water - we walked together to Estella, looking for a supermarket (after many days)
to buy fresh fruit. In the small villages there are almost no shops anymore. Just one bar per village.
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Estella - see the straw on the road.
That means there were / oder will be wild bulls running around???
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festival day in Estella. Watch out for the straw on the bottom - there may be wild bulls running around the village . . .
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local specialities
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Estella
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Church "San Pedro de la Rua" in Estella has an interesting Portal (entrance)
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Bodega (winery) and monastery at the end of the city of Estella -
for all wine loving pelegrinos - here you can get your stomach tank full of wine.
Wine tasting, as much as you can (as far as I still can remember . . .)
Just a small deviation from the "normal" camino (the one without wine and sins), but if you love wine it's worth going there,
and of course also watching the monastery !!!! (not just the wine!!)
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on the camino you have manny of "fuentes" - places to fill up your water bottle
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If you want - have a little exercise and climb up to the ruins and have a nice view . . .
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Two italians, on guy from France, one guy from Spain and me arrived at a well simultaneously..
We had a funny discussion whether French, Spanish or Italian girls are better . . .
(not so much the "normal" camino discussion topic, but fun)
Hope the too serious pelegrinos never see this homepage . . . some dangerous photos ahead!!!
Make sure you are (or pretend to be) over 18 watching and reading this!
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Old well from Mauren Times - here I met Veronica and Herve Dubois.
Funny couple, he is Frenche and she from England. We met each other again several times on the way.
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Here I met Veronica (GB) and her husband Herve from France. Funny couple.
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Veronica and Herve decided to stay in the next village (Villamayor de Monjardin)
but before I walked on we had some Cervesas together.
This picture is where they stayed in the Villamayor de Monjardin alberge.
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Veronique and Herve - we had some servesas.
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leaving Villamayor de Monjardin - heading for Los Arcos -
again a beautiful afternoon / evening walk.
I think this is a good time to walk, but many do not dare to beeing afraid the alberges are full.
Well - I had my tent and did not have to bother about alberges.
The price of freedom is just 2,5 kilos more and you have no rush or hustle at all . . .
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heading for Los Arcos - easy to get lost there.
One crossing had no road signs at all and I was worried about finding my way there . . .
of course nobody out there in the late afternoon.
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Lonely 8 km walk to Los Arcos - finally saw someone working.
So it was not me all alone in this peaceful afternoon world.
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WOW - in Los Arcos (July 25th) the village had a big festival (Senor Santiago)
St. Jacobus' day is July 25th which is also my birthday!
Being born on St. Jacobus day had also been one reason for me to walk the camino.
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The biggest and greatest Paella I had ever seen and tasted ! ! !
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more than 1 meter in diameter - enough to feed the whole village and some starving pelegrinos too - everyone was invited
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one of the best paellas in my whole life
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In the Austrian Alberge were 3 Japanese for "working holiday"
Koji and his wife Naoko (who were travelling around the whole world together) and Kyoko Matsuo from Kyushu
Kyoko was kind of volunteer / working holiday in the Alberge "Casa de Austria" in Los Arcos.
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I took a video of this with my mobile phone - just uploaded it. You need a player for AVI Files on your PC
like Windows Media player or similar.
See an AVI-Video of this - Festival of Senor Santiago on July 25th
- another video of this festival later at night
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Oyama Koji and Naoko and Matsuo Kyoko
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Konrad (Alberge de Austria) and a Japanese man living in South America
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Konrad from Austria and me both like to eat and drink lots of wine togeter . . . see the extra portion of paella to share...
this was not the only one . . . and several bottles of wine to follow . . .
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Karen - also from Casa de Austria (Alberge des Pelegrinos in Los Arcos)
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As it was my birthday - they all suddenly started to sing "happy birthday" too.
You feel like in the japanese Sizzler restaurant when the waitresses gather around your table
and sing in a kind of English language "HAPPIII BAAAZUDEEE ZUU YUU"
- all the world watching at you . . .
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In the late evening also Veronika from Poland arrived - our lady walking slowly but many hours a day and long distances.
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As the evening contiues the people start dancing and singing. And drinking continues.
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Next morning in front of Casa de Austria I met Albert from Italy and we walked together.
Funny conversation, mixture of mostly french and some english and as I studied Latin before
also some fragments of Italian and Spanish.
Well - you do not need perfect language skills to communicate - just both need a good heart and a willingness
to understand each other and you can communicate with everyone in the world.
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Church of Santa Maria in Los Arcos in the morning light
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Albert from Italy
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Hugo from Belgium passing us by - Albert knew him and I met him later again before Burgos.
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continue walking to Sansol / Torres del Rio
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having my "breakfast" which is boccadillos and servesas (beer)
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the village of Viana
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Viana - bull festivals in all cities at that time
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passing the city / village
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Church of Santa Maria.
Cesare Borgio was buried in front of the church in 1507 (outside the church, because he was a bad guy)
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walk to Logrono
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Anna Giardini from bella Italia with the pelegrino statue in the Alberge of Logrono.
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Logrono
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Logrono
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"La chevre des Pirenees" - Lady from France
She was used to walking very fast, even up and down steep hills.
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So after this part of the Camino in 2008 (startin in France) I found myself speaking French again as in the good old times of High School.
This picture was taken at the lake Pantano de la Grajera (6km after Logrono)
Here we had picknick (breakfast)
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Someone dropped his shoes and walking stick next to the road.
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passing the ruins of a pilgrim hospital dating from the 12th century
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Navarrete
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Cemetery of Navarrete
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Cemetery of Navarrete
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Seeing Ventosa from the distance - you may pass this village by
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monastery "Santa Maria la Real" in Najera
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inside the monastery Santa Maria la Real in Najera
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Monastery in Najera inside
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Alberge de Pelegrinos in Azofra, on of the best alberges on the whole camino.
Double bed rooms - they check you in as you come - men and women in the same room who don't know each other (yet).
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Funny man in the Alberge: "We have a swimming pool here"
"Buy you better wear a motor cycle helmet when diving in . . . " 2035.JPG 2000 * 1500 |
Alberge in Azofra
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There was a winery nearby which had a wine tasting for pelegrinos
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very very deep in the underground
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wine tanks
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filling an labelling machine
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wooden barrels for "barrique" taste
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uups . . . funny drinking device for wine (close your eyes if you are under 18)
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Heike and her friend who hurt her leg
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Beate from Duesseldorf and Suzi from Vienna
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having a rest
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Beate from Germany
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servesas - your daily meal
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Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada - see the two chicken
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here you see the two chicken (alive) kept in the cathedral
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Susi from Austria
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Beate and Susi stay in Santo domingo de la Calzada - I keep walking till the late afternoon as usually
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German pelegrinos as Redecilla del Camino
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on and on we go
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the alberge des pelegrions off the road at Villamayor.
The alberge was ok, but the lady of the alberge not. She wanted everybody to be out of the house
at 7.30 in the morning. There was just a man from France and me, tired and still sleeping at 7.30 . . .
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Jean-Marc Noirot, teacher (professeur) in Paris, France
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we had long philosophical discussions on the way - then we found a bar (Etoile) in the City of Belorado.
After tortillas, boccadillos and the usual 3 - 4 morning beers we tasted his favourite liqueur:
PACHARAN - a basque liqueur.
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tortillas and beer for breakfast
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The bar owner with the Pacharan bottle
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Jean-Marc is dressed like the bedouines in Africa - against the heat and against mosquitos.
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walking in the hot sun
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ruins of an old monastery
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Church in San Juan de Ortega
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The alberge of San Juan de Ortega was full - so what shall we do . . .
yeah . . . red wine and rose wine till you don't care any more. Its getting late night when the bar closes
and then you just sleep outside
as the other pelegrinos do who came late . . .
If you drink enough wine, you don't even need a tent. If you drink not enough, you probably need a tent.
And in the early morning you wake up outside wondering why it is so cold here in hot Spain.
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Sleeping outseid the alberge
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Village Santovenia de Oca
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Villag Zalduendo - excellent CAFE ! ! ! very friendly people
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Met Hugo from Belgium again and we went to Burgos together
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on the hills of Atapuerca
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funny sign . . . watch out for what???
I went back to take this picture while walking with Hugo and there were just two elderly ladies
in front of the sign who did not seem to like this kind of humour . . .
So it took me some courage to go to old ladies and taking this foto . . .
Hugo just kept smiling. . . .
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typical spanish table architecture (just kidding)
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Graffiti in Villaval - things you should not take . . .
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funny house in Villaval
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approaching Burgos - here the airport
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We walked into the city of Burgos all the way through industrial aereas (the never give up walking pelegrinot type)
but I recommend you take a bus - not much to see walking along the big streets into Burgos
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Finally I get my roasted sheep . . . !!!!
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YUMMI ! ! ! Thats what an ideal sheep is like . . . roasted in a traditional stone oven ... really really delicious
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Hugo with a statue in Burgos
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Veronica and Herve (teachers living in France now)
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on the way to the alberge we meet a nice spanish guy,
Hose Luis Ramos Gil
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Hose Luis - his last day on the Camino - he will fly to Turkey the next day
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The Lewis sisters Sarah and Becca
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hope to see each other in Oxford again some day - or probably in Tokyo
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Spanish family
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Anna made it to Burgos - see you in Bella Italia or in Tokyo
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The alberge in Burgos
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South Americans sleeping outside
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lovely located alberge, 2km away from Burgos center out in a park near a river
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Breakfast in Burgos - Tortilla and Cafe con Leche
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city gate of Burgos
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Burgos Cathedral
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This is really good> "Cordero lechal asado al horno de lena " but it must be in this restaurant,
probably the best restaurant in town and 20 Euros ist really not expensive for what you get there !
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this is the traditional restaurant - they have shops on the other side
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I bough a jamon at burgos and here ist how to cut it . . . we will see in Japan . . .
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market place in Burgos with some famous teenie groups making music
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see those hams in the window . . . lets take one to japan . . .
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You want to hear him play - then click on this link for "Anatevka" - in the streets of burgos
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the second night in Burgos I just camped outside
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camping is for free, but you give a little donation for using internet and showers etc . .
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people from all over the world meet in front of my tent (South America - Hungary - Spain - etc etc)
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someone gave it to me (too heavy for her) and I carried and read it on my way . . .
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long distance Bus terminal in Burgos
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And here ist the rest of the Story>
In Burgos I bougth a jamon iberico for all my Japanese Friends who had also walked the Camino . . .

Jamon Iberico Cebo

First home party with Camino - Lovers in Japan

very delicious - last photo before it was cut and eaten
outside the ham is quite hard, but you can see the soft meat inside - delicious . . .

and they all lived happily ever after . . .
THE END
One last question sir before we let you go: "What happened to the ham"?
Well, there were two more "jamon iberico parties" during the week and on the next weekend
and all within 8 days !!! the 7kg jamon iberico was gone.


The second party was with a German - Japanese Familiy

Am nächsten Tag - ja sieh nur her!
da war er schon viel magerer.
Am dritten Tag, o weh und ach!
wie der Schinken dünn und schwach!





Am vierten Tage endlich gar
der Schinken wie ein Fädchen war.
Er wog vielleicht ein halbes Lot -
und war am fünften Tage tot.
and they all lived happily ever after
except for the jamon iberico
... und vom tollen Schinkenschmaus,
schaut nur noch ein Fuß heraus.
And now it is up to you to go walking there ! ! !
Ursula from Germany just mailed me a picture from a beautiful sunrise in Artieda - come on, get up and start walking.
Life is to short to waste it at home or in some boring office

THE END
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